指導教授:吳錫德
口試委員:吳錫德、苑倚曼、阮若缺
中文摘要:
《米其林評鑑指南》自1900年至今發行超過百年,為世界銷售量最大、最齊全、收錄世界一流餐廳與旅館的美食年鑑。該指南在法國不僅是美食愛好者參考的指標性評鑑指南,米其林首創的餐廳星級評比制度,在全球美食界的作用形同營利的代表,只要被評比列入星級,每增加一顆星可以增加約25%的營業額,因此,能榮獲米其林星級的餐廳,象徵在餐飲、服務等方面具國際水準,而指南所樹立的米其林三星榮耀,更是廚師追求的桂冠。
本論文的研究以法國《米其林評鑑指南》為主要對象,探討法國的美食評論形成的歷史背景與成因,透過文獻的分析,以脈絡的呈現反映《米其林評鑑指南》的整體歷程與概況,因此其他美食指南的內容不在研究範圍內。論文探討法國美食評鑑指南在法國飲食文化中所代表的角色與定義。了解什麼樣的背景因素,使法國美食評鑑指南成為法國美食的指標,這和法國飲食的演變歷程又有什麼關係?《米其林評鑑指南》的評鑑制度,為何能在法國廚師的心目中具有如此重要的地位與權威?指南對廚師和消費者間又有什麼正面或是負面的影響?換句話說,本論文旨在探討《米其林評鑑指南》在百年發展的過程中,在法國飲食文化中的重要性以及影響力。
首先自19世紀飲食風氣談起,由飲食品論者、名廚書寫與政府三方面做切入,分析法國美食文化的傳播與興起,釐清法國追求美饌的文化氛圍與品論風氣的相互關係。接著深入探討法國美食評鑑指南興起的過程與轉變,藉由官方與學術期刊文獻的整理,透析美食評鑑指南的角色定位與運作方式,推演美食評鑑指南成功的因素與背後代表的時代意涵,最後歸納分析美食評鑑指南的正負面影響。
英文摘要:
Michelin Guide has been published more than one hundred years since 1900. It is the best selling gourmet annual guide book of the world which collects the most complete high-quality gourmet restaurants and hotels. Michelin Guide is considered a leading indicator of restaurant reference guide for gourmands due to its three-star rating system. In Europe, quality gastronomy is synonymous with the Michelin Guide. Therefore, it is a respected institution among chefs, restaurateurs, culinary experts, and the dining public. The acquisition or loss of a star can have dramatic effects on the success of a restaurant, each additional star can help increase sales by 25%, furthermore, being awarded a Michelin star can be identified as an international standard in food, service, etc. This is the reason why so many chefs are driven by the desire for a future inclusion and promotion in the Michelin system in their quest for continuous improvement and quality delivery.
French Michelin Guide is the crucial case study of the thesis. Document analysis was used to analyze the relevant reports to explore the development, historical background and rating manner of Michelin Guide, other guides are out of the realm of research. The study investigates the role and definition of French food guide in French culinary culture. Specifically, the study focuses on (1) how the Michelin Guide become the best-known and most respected food bible for high-quality and haute-cuisine restaurants. What is its relationship with the French food evolution, (2)how the “star system” operates as a “signalling device” in the industry for understanding the impact and authority of star awards to French chefs, finally, (3)for chefs and consumers, what are the advantages and negative influence of Michelin Guide.